A Practical Guide to Crossing the Green Line in Cyprus

Cyprus is an island of two halves, and to visit only one is to miss much of what it has to offer. The north has a quieter, more rural feel, with the sweeping golden sands of the Karpaz Peninsula and a rugged coastline. The south is home to the clear waters of Cape Greco and the resort town of Ayia Napa. Travelling between the two is possible, but a little planning makes the crossing much smoother.

The boundary dividing the island is known as the Green Line. At the crossing points, you pass through passport controls on either side of a United Nations buffer zone. You can cross on foot or by car. Walking requires less paperwork, but having a car gives you far more freedom to explore. I have driven from north to south several times; these are the practical details I wish I had known before my first crossing.

Bring your passport

Although you remain on the island of Cyprus, crossing the Green Line feels much like crossing an international border. You will need to present your passport or travel documents at the checkpoints on both sides. British citizens did not need a visa when I travelled, but entry requirements can change, so check the latest advice for your nationality before setting out.

Check your hire car's terms before booking

Rules for taking a hire car across the Green Line vary considerably between companies. Some do not allow it at all; others permit it with prior approval. I have used Oscar Rent a Car on my last few visits, and they generally allowed their vehicles to travel south. Before crossing, I told the company what I intended to do and collected a permission form from the rental office to show at the border.

There was no charge for this paperwork when I travelled, although another company may charge a small fee. Confirm both permission and any cost before booking rather than discovering a restriction at the checkpoint.

Know where you are going to cross

There are several crossing points along the Green Line. Some are for pedestrians only, while others do not operate around the clock. The largest and most central is the Metehan crossing in Nicosia. It is open 24 hours, accepts both pedestrians and vehicles, and has the offices needed to arrange the documents for your car.

Arrange vehicle tax and insurance

The insurance supplied with your hire car may not cover you on the other side of the Green Line. When travelling from north to south, I needed a temporary insurance policy and a vehicle tax docket. The process is straightforward once you know where to go, although the booths were not clearly marked when I arrived.

After clearing both passport controls at Metehan, I found two grey portable cabins on the right-hand side. One issued the vehicle tax docket and the other sold insurance. There are parking areas around the crossing, so a solo driver can pull over safely while arranging the documents.

On my visit, the vehicle tax docket was free and looked much like a till receipt. I then bought a one-month insurance policy for €25. It could be used for multiple crossings during that month, but the cover was limited to third-party damage. Any damage to the hire car itself would not have been covered while driving in the south. Prices and terms may change, so confirm the current cover at the crossing.

Green Line crossing points

The crossings below were operating when I travelled. Names often appear in both Greek and Turkish, so it is useful to recognise both versions. Some are pedestrian-only or have restricted access; verify the current opening hours and vehicle rules before relying on one.

• Kato Pyrgos (Yeşilırmak)
• Lefka (Lefke)
• Astromeritis (Bostancı/Güzelyurt)
• Agios Dometios (Metehan)
• Ledra Street in Nicosia (pedestrians only)
• Ledra Palace in Nicosia (restricted vehicle access)
• Pyla (Beyarmudu — Sovereign Base Area crossing)
• Agios Nikolaos (Sovereign Base Area crossing)
• Deryneia (Famagusta/Gazimağusa)