Trail · Destination · North Cyprus, Cyprus
Exploring North Cyprus
You've heard of Ayia Napa — but what about Girne? Castles in the Kyrenia mountains, deserted Karpaz beaches and the frozen streets of Varosha.
Words by Alex Wilson · 28 June 2026 · 9 min read
I have been visiting the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus for the best part of a decade now. My first visit was in 2018, when my father-in-law had just bought a holiday home in the village of Tatlisu, and I have been going back ever since.
Cyprus is an island in the eastern Mediterranean, not far from the shores of the Middle East. In recent history it belonged to the United Kingdom as an overseas territory until it gained its independence in 1960. Fourteen years later, following a conflict on the island, it was split into a northern third and a southern two-thirds, administered by Türkiye and Greece respectively. I won’t go into the history of the conflict here, but in practice the island operates as two states divided by a UN buffer zone.
Getting there
Getting to the North isn’t as straightforward as getting to the South. Politically, the country is only recognised by Türkiye, so there are no direct flights from the UK. The best way to do it is to fly via Istanbul and then on to Ercan International Airport. I choose Turkish Airlines when I go, for their generous 23kg luggage allowance and slightly better standard of travel.
Once you arrive in the north, hiring a car is highly recommended. I have done so on every visit, as public transport is limited and really only connects the larger towns and cities. If you want to go anywhere off that route, you’ll need your own means of getting there. Various hire companies operate from the airport, but booking ahead will secure you the best prices. In the summer months hire cars are in high demand, so if you’re travelling then, definitely book in advance.
Where to stay
If, like me, you prefer self-catered accommodation, things become a lot more affordable. North Cyprus, for various reasons, attracts large expat communities — mainly from the UK — and as a result, complexes of holiday homes have sprung up across the northern coast. Many of these are available to rent when they are not occupied by their owners. Websites such as Airbnb and Booking.com are your best friends here.
Self-catering is a significantly cheaper option, and it gets cheaper still if you’re willing to drive to the larger towns. I found a whole apartment on the Sea Terra reserve, around a 40-minute drive from Kyrenia on the northern coast. It set me back £45 per night.
My top five
When it comes to things to do in the North, the list is long, so I’ll keep it to my top five:
- 01
Visit Golden Beach on the Karpaz
The Karpaz is the large peninsula to the north-east of the island. From where I stayed in Tatlisu the drive takes around an hour (an hour and 45 minutes from Girne), but once you arrive you’ll be rewarded with miles of deserted sandy beach and crystal-clear water. The coast is dotted with small beach bars where you can rent sunbeds and shade for the day for around £5–£8 for two.
- 02
Take a trip to Bellapais Abbey
Bellapais is a small idyll that sits in the hills above the city of Girne. At its centre are the ruins of a 13th-century abbey, built by those fleeing the Crusades in the Middle East. There is a small fee to enter but it’s well worth it, and the views over the city below are stunning. Surrounding the abbey are a handful of gift shops and bars in which to while away the afternoon hours. There is also an on-site restaurant serving meze and other Turkish dishes that I would highly recommend.
- 03
Visit the Castles of Northern Cyprus
High in the Kyrenia Mountains sits a chain of medieval castles from the 12th century, built to fortify the island against Arab raids. Each served as a watchtower and formed a defensive line that any invader would have had to cross to get further inland. Kantara is the most easterly of the three, followed by Buffavento and then St Hilarion to the west. All except St Hilarion are free to enter if you can manage the climb, and each offers 360-degree views over the island from coast to coast.
- 04
Visit the Ghost City of Varosha
The town of Varosha, or Maraş, sits just outside the city of Famagusta. It was an incredibly popular holiday resort for the world’s A-listers in the 1960s until the invasion of 1974. Its residents fled, and what remained was occupied by the Turkish military and swallowed up by the buffer zone. In the last five years or so, the Turkish military has reopened parts of the town as a tourist attraction, allowing people to walk its streets. Like stepping back in time, they remain as they were in the 1970s, with nature having slowly taken over in the decades that followed. Although you cannot enter any of the buildings, it makes for an eerie yet intriguing visit — and best of all, it is free.
- 05
Have dinner in the old city of Famagusta
Famagusta is one of the major cities of Northern Cyprus, sitting just above the UN buffer zone in the east. At its centre is the old medieval walled town, peppered with crusader-era churches and monuments. Car access is limited, so it’s best to park up and walk in for the best experience. The cathedral is a must-see, as is a walk along the old city wall to take in the views from the crenellations. For food, we ate at Aspava Restaurant, which I cannot recommend highly enough. We had Turkish meze followed by traditional kebabs and baklava. The portions were generous, and the whole meal, including two rounds of drinks, came to £45 for both of us.
Aspava Restaurant
A few lesser-known finds
Here are a few of my recommendations that are perhaps a little less well known.
Benöz Restaurant
Located in Alagadi Bay, Benöz is a family-run restaurant that has been around for decades. Set among a plethora of plants and trees, it serves traditional Cypriot fare, all made on site. Think sigara börek, tzatziki and flatbreads. The owner is super-friendly and will happily welcome you in for the evening.
Benöz Restaurant on Tripadvisor
Eagles Nest Bar
Eagles Nest sits along the coast between Esentepe and Tatlisu. A once-ramshackle locals’ bar has been turned into a five-star restaurant and social hub. The food and drink are good, but it is the location that sets this place apart — perched literally on the edge of a cliff next to the sea, which makes for unforgettable sunset views. If a night sipping cocktails at a bougie Mediterranean beach club is your thing, you’ll love it.
Spice Garden
If you’re missing some of the comforts of home, Spice Garden may be the cure — a curry house serving all of the classics as well as some lesser-known additions. The surroundings are a little more rustic, but the quality of the food more than makes up for it.
Frames from the north
